The Sporades, on Xanemo.
Booked direct.

A 1995 Beneteau Oceanis 440 — owner's version. Sailed from Volos by Greek captains the owner sails with himself.

Write to me about a week →

How this is different.

My father travelled in Greece as a young man in the 1960s and made friends there. They stayed friends for life. That's why my family kept coming back — we always had someone to visit. In 1993 I was on one of those trips: we visited one of my father's old friends in the Peloponnese, and chartered a family boat to sail. On that trip, with only one year of school English to my name, I somehow managed to befriend a French solo sailor named Giles. We kept anchoring in the same places, and wrote to each other for years afterwards — before email, long before social media. That's where it starts, for me.

Me on the chartered family boat, summer 1993
Me on the chartered family boat, summer 1993.
The family with my father's old friend at his Krioneri camping site, Peloponnese
The family with my father's old friend at his Krioneri camping site, Peloponnese.
Giles on his boat — we met at anchor and wrote to each other for years afterwards
Giles on his boat — we met at anchor and wrote to each other for years afterwards.

I kept coming back to Greece — first with friends, then with my own family, on chartered boats out of Croatia, Denmark, the Caribbean, and always, eventually, Greece. The places I came back to were the quiet ones. The bays without the fleet.

Xanemo is a 1995 Beneteau Oceanis 440, Jubilee edition — an owner's version, one wheel rather than the two you see on the modern charter boats. I bought her, refit her in 2023, fitted new Quantum sails, a bow thruster, solar and a wind generator, and put her in Volos. She is not new. She has a teak cockpit laid last year and 30 years of someone-having-loved-her. She is one of the faster boats in the area — which means good sailing on the days there's wind, and good anchorages on the days there isn't.

I share her with people I know, and people they know. Bookings come direct: Odyssey Sailing in Volos handles the paperwork and the captains; I handle the conversations. Direct-booked guests pay 20% under the published rate as standard, deeper for last-minute. The captains are Greek skippers I sail with myself — Nasos, for one, who also keeps the boat through the winter.

If the closest thing you've heard to this is FTLF's gastebørs, but without the requirement to already be in the subculture — yes, this is that.
Xanemo from the drone, plus deck, saloon and an evening onboard

A composite view: Xanemo from above, on deck, an evening onboard, a piece of the Sporades. Classic boat, classic waters.

Two ways aboard.

Offer A — Captained

One week. A captain I know. Up to eight guests.

A Greek captain I sail with myself takes the helm. You bring family or friends. No licence needed. The route is yours, within reason: Volos to the Pelion coast and out to Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos, the marine park. We can change it day by day.

Ask about a skippered week →

Offer B — Bareboat

Two weeks. You skipper. We hand you the keys.

For sailors with ICC, RYA Day Skipper, Danish Yachtskipper 3 / Duelighedsbevis or equivalent, plus one crew member with declared sailing experience. Greek VHF rules vary — Odyssey confirms what your specific licence covers when we book. Xanemo points to weather better than her age suggests.

Ask about a bareboat fortnight →

Xanemo, in numbers.

Builder
Beneteau Oceanis 440, Jubilee edition
Layout
Owner's version — one wheel, not two
Year
Built 1995, refit 2023
Length × beam
13.70 m × 4.25 m, draft 1.80 m
Cabins / berths
4 cabins · 8 + 1 berths · 2 heads
Sails
Quantum main (2017) · new Quantum genoa (2024)
Engine
Yanmar 4JH4-TE 75 HP turbo · bow thruster (2024)
Off-grid
Solar cells · wind generator · stays connected on mobile
Tender
Dinghy with outboard included · paddle board rentable
Speed
8–10 knots cruising; one of the faster boats in the area
Flag / base
Greek · Volos

Full inventory, layout, and gallery on the Odyssey Sailing listing →

The crew.

The captains are people I sail with myself — Greek skippers who also help keep the boat through the seasons. More to come; we'll fill these in as the season fills.

Nasos

Captain

Easy-going skipper who knows these waters and helps me look after Xanemo through the winter. Best with mixed-experience groups.

⟨ Captain 2 ⟩

Captain

Bio to come — one of the Greek skippers I sail with, available for skippered weeks across the summer.

⟨ Captain 3 ⟩

Captain

Bio to come — alternates with Nasos depending on the week and your dates.

Why the Sporades, and not where everyone else goes.

The Cyclades are spectacular, expensive, and full. The Ionian is sheltered, family-easy, and full of fleets. The Sporades sit between Athens and Thessaloniki on the map, accessed via Skiathos airport or a drive from Athens. Most charter networks don't have a base there. That is the entire point.

From Volos you sail across to Skiathos in a long morning, into the Pelion coast for the quieter bays, out to Skopelos for the town (and the Mamma Mia church if you must), and on to Alonissos and the marine park beyond — the only marine park in Greece, with seals, dolphins, and anchorages where you'll often be the only boat at sunset.

Skiathos is the busy one — useful for the airport, otherwise a brief stop. The rest are quieter. The marine park at the end of the chain is quieter still. A week is enough to see most of it without rushing. A fortnight lets you go properly slow.

Local sailing community — race if it appeals.

I'm a member of Volos Sailing Club, the local sailing association. They organise races through the season — weekend regattas to longer tournaments. I haven't joined one myself yet (calendars haven't aligned), but if you'd like to race during your week, I can coordinate with the club. It could also become a recurring event if enough guests are interested — say one week a year where we pull a group together to enter as a fleet.

Write if it sounds interesting →

About the price.

Xanemo's published 2026 weekly rate is set by season, between €1,800 and €2,900. Direct booking through me gets 20% off as standard, deeper for last-minute. Odyssey Sailing in Volos handles the paperwork — they're the operational backbone, and their cut is what makes the whole thing work. What direct booking actually skips is the 20% that third-party rental portals layer on top.

13 Jun – 25 Jul€2,600
25 Jul – 22 Aug€2,800
22 Aug – 12 Sep (peak)€2,900
12 Sep – 26 Sep€2,500

A skippered week is the matrix rate (less 20%) plus the captain's day rate. A bareboat fortnight is two matrix weeks (less 20%) plus a refundable damage deposit. Fuel beyond a starting allowance, marina fees, and provisioning are extras.

Write to me with your dates. I'll come back the same day with the exact number and what's included.

Send your dates →

What guests say.

Two new testimonials in production. Below: placeholder content showing the form. Real quotes from confirmed guests will replace these before launch — older reviews from prior charters meanwhile on the Odyssey listing.

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We spent the week between Skopelos and the marine park. Nasos knew exactly which bays were quiet on a Wednesday and which had the better taverna. The kids learned to handle the tender. We barely went into a marina — that was the point.

⟨ Guest name ⟩
Skippered week, July 2024 — family of five
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Xanemo points well to weather for her age, and the new genoa makes a difference. Two weeks out of Volos with full Sporades range — the quietest weather window we've had in years. Nikolaj's handover was real: keys, briefing, and out of the way.

⟨ Guest name ⟩
Bareboat fortnight, May 2024 — four crew

Places worth remembering.

A selection of anchorages, bays, and small harbours from the Sporades and the Pelion coast. Each with a short story. An interactive map coming once the photos are in.

⟨ Photo ⟩

Skopelos town

The white steps up to the Mamma Mia chapel, narrow lanes, fish dinners on terraces.

Story to come from Nikolaj

⟨ Photo ⟩

Steni Vala, Alonissos

Fisherman's taverna with the day's catch, good shelter from NW wind, one of the best evenings of the week.

Story to come from Nikolaj

⟨ Photo ⟩

Kyra Panagia

Inside the marine park. Anchor alone, monastery ruin on the hill, seals if you're lucky.

Story to come from Nikolaj

⟨ Photo ⟩

Trikeri, Pelion peninsula

Old fishing village. The natural first night out from Volos.

Story to come from Nikolaj

⟨ Photo ⟩

Damouchari, Pelion

The Mamma Mia bay. Clear water under steep cliffs, small harbour on the way back.

Story to come from Nikolaj

⟨ Photo ⟩

Volos waterfront

Tsipouradiko at sunset, a local specialty. Recommended before or after the charter.

Story to come from Nikolaj

Write directly.

I read every message myself.